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How To Set Up Top Fin 3.5 Gallon Tank

I upgraded "Fin" to a new tank. We were away for a chip over a month and he survived in an Aqueon Mini Bow one gallon. The tank likewise leaked a bit - not much. Then, it was time to upgrade Fin to a new dwelling house.

Today is 24-hour interval 1 - purchased from PetSmart and added some gravel and an ornamentation all for nether $36 USD.

Fin seems happy and is exploring the tank.

I plan to change the water at 25% monthly and feed at 2-three pellets one time a day.

The regiment for maintenance and feeding won't change.

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#2

3 years ago

Looks Peachy! I am sure he is very happy with that upgrade!😉😊

Bubblesthefish avatar

#3

iii years ago

Okay, just to repeat what y'all said. "I plan to modify the water at 25% monthly."
This is not okay. I tin can already see obvious fin rot on the betta's fins, which is caused past bad water quality. It's like shooting fish in a barrel to fix though, you need to start doing daily water changes, by 25%.
It's harmful for other reasons besides. The buildup of ammonia (Fish Poop) is very dangerous for your fish. If there is besides much, your fish can potentially die. Especially if you accept a bit of a smaller tank, the ammonia has no where to spread, so it just stays in one place. And bettas tin can produce a lot of ammonia in a month.
It's kinda like if you didn't have a bath for a calendar month. Bettas like to exist clean, and just call up that the water that they are in is besides the h2o they are breathing. I don't like breathing muddy air, and I bet you don't either.

KatterFish avatar

#4

three years agone

It'southward a good upgrade, I have i of my bettas in ane and he's loving it.

I take to agree with Bubbles though.

Your betta already has fin rot. Ideally you should already exercise 25% h2o changes on a weekly ground, a betta fin rot volition need a water modify every couple of days, 25% would be fine.

So..just up those h2o changes and his fin rot should get away, every bit expert water quality promotes fin growth and fights fin-rot. 👍

thea avatar

#5

3 years ago

I wrote y'all a long response on an earlier postal service that yous updated.
https://www.myaquariumclub.com/aqueon-mini-bow-1-gallon-tank-for-betta-1205156.html#1244114

Please read it. It has steps for you to follow to keep this fish healthy.

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#vi

3 years ago

I will track Fin's progress in the new tank. The fins were impacted for living in a i gallon for 1 month with just a week pellet. The trivial guy survived. And, I will change the h2o @25% monthly or if I meet a need to practise it earlier.

I will up his feeding to ii-3 pellets twice a day every bit that volition aid with the healing.

thea avatar

#7

3 years ago

Hey Fin,

There is no way for you to "encounter"if you demand to do more water changes. Ammonia is odorless and colorless and a clear tank can be full of poisonous water. The flip side is that a cloudly tank tin can exist perfectly healthy.

I am copying what I wrote to you on your other thread. Please pay particular attention to the sections in bold. As I, and many before me, have told you, and you seem to non be able (or willing) to grasp is that monthly water changes ARE Not Plenty

"Survival is nothing to exist proud of. I would assume you desire your betta to thrive. And that means actually listening to what people take told yous. And so far you have blatantly ignored it.

No 100% water changes. 20-thirty% water changes twice a calendar week. (Since fifty-fifty a 3.5 gallon is a small tank. Use conditioner and temperature match the replacement water to inside a degree. You lot saw what happened when you didn't with your last fish.

I will spell it out for yous. Fish spew out ammonia and even a little bit is poisonous. They also pee and poop in the tank. Toxins like that need to be removed. Living with toxins weakens fish and then they fall sick.

You lot need a heater. Bettas are tropical and need h2o 78-81F to thrive. Yes they volition survive for a bit in room temperature water but survival is not the goal.

Filter media SHOULD Non and DOES NOT need to be changed despite what the box tells you. If the menses is reduced from being stuck upward with solids and gentle classy in the tank water you remove when you practice water changes is enough to reset information technology. Media is supposed to exist brown—white media is new media and has no good stuff. Beneficial leaner (that feed on the toxic ammonia and other reside primarily in the filter media. Throw it away and your fish is back to living in poisonous h2o. This ways that the erstwhile filter floss/media has beneficial bacteria and should be squished into the new filter till sufficient grow in the new filter. Or it can be hung in a new clean nylon stocking for a couple of weeks (with such a small tank it volition exist hard to observe the space and it won't be pretty just it will assistance a lot)

Betta tin be starved 1 day a week (or the occasional calendar week long holiday) if they are fed well and a variety of diet the residual of the week, but two pellets is insufficient and a fish that is hungry all the time is not a happy healthy fish.

If you follow these rules this betta will thrive and live far longer than, Fishu, your terminal one.

Those may interest y'all:

shutrfly avatar

#8

iii years agone

I tin can support the food part as your betta is already thin. He has no stores at all in the caudle peduncle ( spot before the tail). It's so thin the narrowness is working its way towards towards the body . This is not good.

Here is a feeding guide for how much and how often. A skinny betta similar yours should be getting three-4 small to medium sized, very wet meals a twenty-four hours.
https://www.myaquariumclub.com/skinny-bettas-underfeeding-might-exist-worse-than-overfeeding-19292.html

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#ix

three years ago

Fin seems to be adjusting well in the new tank. I have increased his food to 3 pellets of the betta pellets and 6 granules of the SUPERViT food. He ate twice yesterday and both times in under 45 seconds. I volition reduce the food if he does not finish is nether ane minute as I don't want to have food waste material in the tank.

Equally for the water changes I'd like to stick to 25% monthly unless the 6-1 examination strip states the h2o might exist getting high in ammonia, nitrates, nitrites or ph.

The fact that Fin survived a month - I am celebrating that. He did merely that and speaking with folks at Big Al'due south, Betta fish can survive 5-6 weeks on no food - they need a low light condition and not too much stimulation. And then, if you lot have to leave your fish as a worst example scenario - they will survive; go on a week pellet in the tank and don't run whatsoever automatic lights.

Thank you for all the learnings and tips - delight go along to share your noesis.

I volition update Fin's progress 😊

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#10

3 years ago

The upgraded food corporeality is still likewise little.
25% a month is way likewise little for partial water changes.
Bettas can live a lot longer than a month, years in fact.
Non feeding a small fish such as a Betta for 5 -half-dozen weeks is a good way for it to die.

To be honest I am non sure why I posted, you never listen to anyone.

Ashleigh avatar

#11

3 years ago

Please, please, delight heed to them. They know what they are talking almost. If you want Fin to thrive you Need to feed more and exercise more than water changes. As for waiting to run across if ammonia is high, Whatsoever ammonia is toxic. Your betta may survive, but unless you modify what y'all're doing, he won't thrive.

Ashleigh avatar

#12

3 years ago

My grandmas betta fish used to in pretty bad shape. He lived in a 3 galling basin, and his set up was similar to what yours is in terms of amount of water and water change schedule. I am now going to show you a picture show of how he looked in the bowl, and then when he easy first in the tank.
The last pic is of him just a week or ii with daily water changes, a filter, and a heater. I hope the difference will speak for itself.

thea avatar

#xiii

3 years ago

If you take trouble understanding that fish produce ammonia on a daily footing and ANY ammonia is poisonous, (and the best way to remove ammonia is to dilute it with h2o changes) and you take trouble understanding that fish use upward minerals past living in a enclosed torso of water (and the best way to refresh and add dorsum those minerals is to exercise water changes with mineral rich h2o) surely the fact that your "dearest" pet is peeing and pooping constantly in the tank is not also complicated for you to sympathize. And at the risk of sounding like a broken tape, best way to remove pee and poop is to remove it with water changes and add together back make clean h2o—surely that much you should be able to sympathise?

But it is seriously insulting for you to reject our decades of succesful fish raising because of some employee at Large Al's. Practise you imagine they have any credentials?

I would advise that all of the states who take been trying to help Fin-for months-put their efforts where information technology is likely to aid from now on. On other threads.

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#14

3 years ago

The information I have shared is not meant to put any of you down - it is information received and information technology was valid. A Betta fish CAN survive if needed for five-6 weeks - it is NOT recommended. But they Volition SURVIVE. Fin is living proof.

As well, I have been taking advise - but, I do not need to do knee-**** reactions equally a mode to larn how to safely continue Fin. Yous are all very experienced and have decades of feel as y'all say. You lot do not demand bullheaded followers. So, cheers for sharing your experiences.

Part of getting into this was the beloved of the fish - non, the brainless h2o changes. So, when the examination strip kit does signal ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and ph that are outside of normal parameters - a water modify volition be washed. I also, do not desire to over feed then take to feed peas or starve the fish - I will slowly increment his feed to ensure that no food is uneaten. Amend to slightly nether feed than over feeding.

I take paid attention to many of you for "Fishu" and "Fin".

And then, please share your experiences if yous so wish - it is appreciated.

Those may interest you:

NickTip avatar

#xv

3 years agone

Brainless water changes? My gosh you take a lot to acquire! "Brainless h2o changes" are the most important thing to keep your fish healthy. Clearly you don't know much of water chemistry.

Plus, you never feed betta fish peas. They are insectivores and can't digest vegetable matter. Peas are used as a laxative for goldfish with swimbladder. Not Betta fish. Surely someone at Big Al's told you lot that?

Sounds to me as though yous are either incredibly lazy or irresponsible to be honest. You don't want to feed your fish plenty (and so concerned with fouling the h2o) all because you don't want to do more water changes? Your tank is tiny! How long can information technology peradventure accept to practise a 25% h2o change weekly?!? 20 minutes? Surely you have time for that? Exam strips tin be ineffective and give false/hard to decipher readings. I wouldn't wait for more problems to bear witness upwardly.. fin rot is already apparent and the best style to combat fin rot... you guessed information technology, h2o changes. Oft. Fresh, make clean, mineral rich, declorinated, temp matched water.

Once a month (25% at that) is in no way good enough..Choose what you will merely your poor fish volition suffer.

Flyfisha avatar

#xvi

3 years ago

Hi Fin,
You say we tin share experiences if we so wish.
Well here's one. A local order member brought a fish at auction but forgot nearly it until getting set up to get to the next months sale. He constitute the fish live in the plastic purse that was in a pile of plastic bags. As much equally I experience sorry for the fish it was the manner he was treated by other local club members that upset me. We are all in the hobby to learn I recall? Nosotros all make mistakes I recollect?

shutrfly avatar

#17

3 years ago

I have been looking into redox balancing.

To put information technology very simply and i mean very simply as its an in depth complicated subject involving chemistry.

So the curt version....

in a river or lake or other h2o system, fish get a abiding supply of fresh ionize minerals. Ionize ways that the minerals are charged either positive or negatively. The positively charged ion minerals are needed by both fish and other living organisms. In the water. In nature, this supply is replenished by the flow constantly 24 hours a day.
These minerals help with osmosis, immunity and over all wellness. That catamenia besides carries away not just poo and pee, but hormones , pheromones , and an array of other toxins secreted by the fish .

A fish that gets these ionized minerals and fresh clean water in adept supply virtually never gets sick. This includes fin rot.

Our tanks however are closed systems . The merely way to go those fresh ionized minerals to the fish and clear out the bad stuff is water changes.

Working with the redox idea in listen and the fact that i have super low kh and and a more alkaline ph , yet some other reason for water changes if your kh is as well low your ph will crash and then will your nitrogen wheel. If ph crashes and you are only irresolute water once a month and you don't know ph crashed you will shock your fish when you practise modify. This is also why regular water changes as soooooo important , to keep steady stable parameters. Not changing often plenty will atomic number 82 to a crash , it has a name too, it'due south call old tank syndrome and can happen on a tank nether iii months old if changes are not carried out properly . Information technology means changing enough often enough.

So for my fish since to buffer my kh means having to lower ph afterwards , i don't want to add ii things to my tank to practise so.

My solution....i change water every other twenty-four hour period. Aye you read that correctly. Every other day.

I alter most 30-40% every other twenty-four hour period. My fish are Thriving. I have v tanks and over forty fish . And yes i do this every other day. My biggest tanks are 2, 20 gallons. Yet just takes me about an 60 minutes or a little over if I'm cleaning filters to change all five tanks.

I have had my betta for 3 months. Not a sew of fin rot since I've had him. He did rip his fin on a plant necktie down a few weeks ago , it was his dorsal and he split it most to his torso, it was healed , completely in 5 days. Because he gets and so much fresh clean water. I'm not saying change every other day like i do, I'm just trying to drive home the fact that fish Demand fresh clean h2o often. And one time a calendar month is not frequently. This needs to exist done weekly or bi-weekly since you practice have a minor tank those pollutants volition build faster.

Bettas tin non go that long with out nutrient. 2 weeks is the max that i know of. And only if the betta is a healthy weight to first with. Yours is not.

My betta was super skinny when i got him. I fed him very moisture food til his abdomen rounded well ( similar in betta feeding blog i sent y'all link for ) 4 times a day til he put on proper weight . Now that he is full grown I feed twice a mean solar day. I don't feed pellets but if i had to compare id say my guy eats 6-8 pellets worth per meal. If i put that into brine shrimp which is part of his normal nutrition ( a varied diet is best , feeding only one affair tin exit nutritional gaps) for brine shrimp we are talking twenty-25 brine shrimp easy may a few more he can swallow per meal.

They need to eat and be a good torso status to maintain wellness. Your fish does not have a good body condition every bit i already mentioned in a higher place on my terminal reply. He has 0 fat stores in caudle peduncle and that lack of fat in that location is working its way into the body . He is skinny.

He needs , clean water ( by mode of nitrogen cycle) , fresh h2o ( by way of weekly changes or more than frequently of 40-l% ), and good high moisture food, plenty of information technology and more than often til he puts weight on. A skinny betta should exist fed 3-4 meals a day. Portions may accept to be smaller , but your only feeding 3 to kickoff with. Commencement soaking those pellets for v-10 minutes before feeding to moisten them as too dry a nutrition is what can atomic number 82 to constipation and bloat , non feeding them proper amounts of food. It'due south the dryness you demand to be concerned with. Feed him those very wet three pellets , 4 times a day. It would exist even better if y'all could get some moisture frozen nutrient in his diet also. Vitamins can be added to it if there is non listed on packet. Do this til his body weight is healthy.

The betta blog I sent describes and shows what a good for you weight betta looks similar as well equally what a betta who does not accept proficient body weight looks like.

If you want your fish to heal and thrive you volition have to start doing more for him, in that location merely is no way effectually it.

thea avatar

#eighteen

3 years ago

You (or your dog) can survive (and survival is all you seem to intendance about) with water and a slice of white bread in a tiny hovel with no facilities simply I tin assure you that you would not exist comfy nor healthy and would die a painful and early death far before than you would if you ate three square meals.

And whatever parent who recommended this plan of action because you were "surviving" would be very irresponsible.

I will leave you with that.

If this was a kid or a dog would you lot still treat it this way?

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#xix

3 years ago

Simply an update on this thread. The tank is great. Doing partial water changes every three weeks.

Fin seems to exist healing well and is active.

Feeding is at 5-6 pellets in one case, every morning for 6 days. And, another v-6 pellets in the evenings 2-iii times a week. And, 1 day of no food a calendar week.

ADDED a water heater 10W - keeps the temp at 27C.

KatterFish avatar

#20

3 years ago

Wow! He's looking bang-up! Keep up the proficient piece of work! 👍

FishkaFishka avatar

#21

3 years ago

He is looking good. My betta fish is named Fin as well.

Fractional water changes should be done in one case a week minimum. I strongly urge you to listen to the valuable advice given hither. It is not just ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that builds up, but hormones and other substances as well.

Possibly this web log will help you.
https://world wide web.myaquariumclub.com/why-are-partial-h2o-changes-pwcs-and so-incredibly-important-20150.html

Fresh water is the best matter we can give our fish. Please consider doing more water changes. The life of your pet is at pale.

 avatar

#22

3 years ago

The examination strip kit indicates ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and ph that are outside of normal parameters around 4 weeks in my tank. I check weekly and therefore do the fractional water modify at approx 3 weeks. I also rinse the filter in the removed water to become rid of any loose waste matter. I accept not changed the filter as yet. Maybe I will do that at the 6 month marker.

I like using the test strips to learn how the water is reacting to the food, waste and the wheel of the tank.

I also use Cedar Springs bottled h2o each fourth dimension as I notice there is no need to condition it.

I have been taking the advise from the vast feel everyone has been sharing. If I do run into the test strip requires an earlier h2o change I will arrange accordingly.

I have attached a picture of the tank heater I picked up from Amazon.

Those may involvement you lot:

FishkaFishka avatar

#23

iii years ago

Hi there,

Maybe you don't see ammonia nitrites, or high nitrates until four weeks, but they are not the only things fouling the water.

At that place are also hormones, pheromones, and other secretions as Shutrfly mentioned above. These can besides cause problems for the fish and your examination kit does non test for those.

The only way to get rid of them is with h2o changes, because your cycle converts ammonia, non hormones.

In add-on, likewise stated above, the minerals in the water must exist replenished in order to maintain overall fish health.

Practice not utilize bottled water. Almost bottled water does not contain the minerals that are essential to fish health. If yous choose to use bottled water, it must exist remineralized. It is far amend to employ conditioned tap water.

FishkaFishka avatar

#24

3 years agone

Fin wrote:

I have been taking the suggest from the vast experience anybody has been sharing.

From what I see you accept not been post-obit the advise. I don't hateful to be rude or unfriendly, but you have been informed multiple times you lot need to upwardly your water changes and you have not listened.

 avatar

#25

three years ago

Fin Update: continue to change partial water at iii weeks. Feeding 1 to two times a day 6 days a calendar week. I endeavour and give one 24-hour interval no food per week.

I had to get out Fin on his own for 2.five weeks and he did well - no bug. I did not use the week feeding - every bit I found information technology does more than to cloudy the tank. Leading up to the time away - I fed him 2 times each twenty-four hour period for 7 days. These photos are iii.five weeks after I returned.

The tank is property up swell - planning to change the filters in a month or so.

He seems attentive, healthy, flares when prompted and eats upwards the food pellets speedily.

The heater keeps the water temp at 27 Celsius consistently. Not a bad purchase for $10.

Also, search cedar springs water - it seems to work well for me. I do non use a h2o conditioner - as I do not see a need for it.

I also have been promoting a flare 2-3 times a calendar week for v minutes each. All it takes is to move my hand towards the tank and opening it - it is well-nigh like on queue and Fin flares. I read that good to exercise a couple times a week.

Flyfisha avatar

#26

3 years ago

Thanks for the update Fin,
I use a fly rod to get line-fishing. Sometimes the fish are simply non on the bite.
Sorry no bites from me today if you lot want to exercise water changes every 3 weeks that's up to you .Good luck with that long term.

Jayjhis avatar

#27

3 years ago

Slightly off topic but non totally - how'south that tank? I've been considering one for some shrimp.

Guys, MTS kicks into overdrive when you commencement breeding shrimp, fair alert.

Carmen79 avatar

#28

three years agone

Flyfisha wrote:

Thanks for the update Fin,
I utilise a wing rod to go line-fishing. Sometimes the fish are just non on the bite.
Sorry no bites from me today if y'all want to do water changes every 3 weeks that's up to yous .Practiced luck with that long term.

Omg hilarious...! 😂
I saw what yous did there.

 avatar

#29

3 years agone

The tank is a good buy for the money.

No leaks, filter keeps h2o clear, size of filter and media keeps the leaner salubrious (keeps the nitrates, nitrites and ammonia at 0 for upwardly to 4-five weeks).

Lighting is something to go used to - multicolor past default. You can select a color - just when it's turned off and on it goes back to default. Something to recall nigh when using for live plants (non recommended) or putting on a timer (if not a fan of multicolor).

Viewing angle - not the best equally the curve distorts the tank. Creates some "blind spots".

For the coin, and the quality information technology'south a good buy. Keeps Fin healthy and thriving.

 avatar

#xxx

2 years ago

In Dec 2022 - I did a full water modify - keeping the gravel, ornaments and filter media. Unfortunately, the filter would not piece of work after the water modify.

Today - I installed a new filter in this aquarium it%u2019s the Meridian Fin Bettaflo BF5. It hangs from where the old filter was - it%u2019s smaller. Seems to work ok. I needed to have a filter in the tank.

Fin - was good while I was away and today he seems to love the new ornaments and filter.

I tossed out the old ornaments as I institute it started to breakdown. Especially the pineapple - non a proficient recommendation to go information technology. Stick with the harder plastics.

Water stays at 31-32 Celsius with the heater and I turn on the lights when feeding.

The Top Fin tank is practiced - filter died within one year. Simply for $20USD it is even so the best tank.

Source: https://www.myaquariumclub.com/top-fin-3.5-gallon-enchant-aquarium-1244034.html

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